Temples, those that have been wizened by the meanders of civilization since medieval times, are more often than not draped in a bemused solemnity… been there, seen that… the tomes of religion remain the same, but their interpretations are forever in a state of flux… the monuments lie somewhere in the middle… tangible testimonies of the past… letting those believing of the ancient lore knock on their doors for benedictions… traditions remain static over time, but their stature grows…

Vibhandeshwar is one those nondescript façades that from afar belie the stature of the temple… Nagara style constructions plastered in a dismaying white, the whole compound carrying a rather claustrophobic feel to it, but a closer look and one is convinced of its authentic antiquity, from the sombre looking statues to the old, heavy wares brooding in the sanctums…

This is Shiva’s dominion, the temple, believed to be built in 1326 AD by Chand rulers although the location is said to find mention in the Skanda Purana, a holy confluence of rivers – Surbhi from the Nagarjun hill range and Nandini from the Dronagiri range… there’s that ‘invisible’ Saraswati too… they are more rivulets than rivers… but a few centuries ago when human populations and needs were both sustainable, who knows how big they would’ve been…

The confluence of rivers and the affiliations to both cultural and spiritual history of the region make the temple highly venerated… last rites performed here guaranteeing moksha and any blessings and prayers offered considered at par with Kashi Vishwanath…

The entire Dwarahat region is dotted with ancient temples, resplendent in cultural history courtesy both the Katyuris and the Chands that complements the natural history of the youngest mountain range… there’s a kind of solace in seeing the ruins as remnants of a past that can only be unearthed by deductions, yet it’s also comforting to see something survive… passages after death keeping temples abuzz with life…  

One can’t help but notice the stony felines baring their canines, a guide into the faunal assemblage of these parts… and amber gods with a rather cold gaze… the whitewashing ironically takes the sheen out of what would have been earthy stone walls blending into the surrounding verdure… it’s a fair barter though, one guesses, compromising with architectural integrity to keep traditions alive…

Vibhandeshwar temple, Dwarahat, Uttarakhand